Gently melt the unsalted butter in a small saucepan. Reserve the butter fat that floats to the top and discard the watery buttermilk that settles at the bottom.
Dry fry all but 1½ teaspoons of the pistachios for about 3 minutes, stirring and turning to make sure they don’t burn. Chop the nuts and beat together with the soft cheese and natural yogurt. Season with freshly ground black pepper, then stir in the Stilton without allowing it to crumble too much – you want to make sure it stays chunky.
Spoon the mixture into small ceramic pots or glasses, pushing down well. Level the top with a knife.
Pour over the melted butter fat and scatter 1½ teaspoons each of halved pistachios and red peppercorns, and either 1 or 2 whole bay leaves.
Chill for at least 2 hours before serving with oatcakes or walnut bread.
Cook’s tip: add a dollop of this pâté to a cooked steak for a burst of melt-in-your-mouth tangy goodness.